Working out of an old peach packing barn in Niagara-on-the-Lake, the facility isn't a traditional winery, but rather more an eclectic mix of tanks, leather sofas, wine cases and antique cabinets. Large windows let the sunshine stream in to shine on the rows of small glasses waiting for thirsty tasters.

Almost everything in this winery is on a small scale. I suppose that goes with making icewine.

Macfarlane says he "stumbled into the wine business" in 1982. That's when he moved back from France and began working with Brights Wines - now Vincor. Over his career he's worked at Kittling Ridge and Andres Wines before branching out on his own.

A total of 25 acres of grapes are made into the brand Northern Ice. To Macfarlane, Northern Ice just isn't another brand for the winery, it's the only thing he's doing so he's focused and very particular about how it's made.

Macfarlane explains the four seasons of icewine: growing, fridge, freezing and winter. Right now we're in the growing of the grapes season and it won't be long before we enter the season he calls the 'fridge.'

This, according to Macfarlane, is the most important icewine season. The temperatures get gradually colder with infrequent frosts that become colder and more dependable as the season progresses. This freezing and thawing is mixed with warm afternoons of sunshine and often times rain. The leaves have all fallen off exposing the grapes which serves to intensify the climate effects. The flavours evolve as some water evaporates to deepen the flavour. This combination of climate and evaporation is important to develop icewine's complexity of intense and exotic flavours.

All the while, the sugar level in the grapes keep rising. Macfarlane waits until the grapes reach 38 to 40 degrees Brix (sugar level) before he waits for a harvest. This is above the stated regulation levels set out by the Vintners Quality Alliance (VQA) for making icewine.

Then comes the perfect freeze. Icewine needs temperatures of minus-8 C before it reaches perfect harvesting conditions. Any warmer and not enough of the water is frozen and any colder, the grapes won't release enough of the concentrated nectar.

Once harvested, Macfarlane raises and lowers the temperature of the fermenting icewine to keep the yeasts fermenting. It's a common problem with icewine - the fermentation stops or is 'stuck' as they call it in the industry. Careful handling on the part of a master makes all the difference.

Northern Ice has a signature of rich fruit in the middle with a dry, elegant finish. In 2005, Northern Ice Vidal Icewine was awarded a Grand Gold award at Monde Selection, an international wine competition held every year in Brussels. In 2006 Northern Ice received two more Grand Golds; one for Northern Ice Vidal and another for Northern Ice Cabernet Sauvignon.

"A Grand Gold is superior to Gold," said a spokeswoman for Monde Selection. "It...means that the product awarded was unanimously recognized by the jurors as flawless and perfect." Only two Grand Golds were awarded in 2004 and 2005, a rare honour in international wine contests.

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Lynn Ogryzlo is food and wine writer for Niagara this Week and Niagara Life magazine.